Rod
Rods come in a wide range of lengths, weights and materials. Materials used in the manufacturing of rods are fiberglass, graphite, a combination of fiberglass and graphite (composite), and bamboo or split cane. Fiberglass rods tend to be a slow action rod, and are much heavier than the modern graphite rod. Fiberglass rods can withstand a lot of abuse, and these rods are usually the least expensive to purchase. Composite rods are lighter and much more responsive than the old glass type rods. The action is faster, and they can put up with some abuse. These rods are in the mid price range. Graphite rods are the lightest rods made, and are the most expensive. The action of these rods are designed into the blank by the manufacturer, and can be from slow to very fast action. Graphite rods do not stand a lot of abuse. Bamboo, or split cane rods, are the rods of yesteryear. They are very expensive, and for the beginner, not a real joy to cast. They are slow and heavy. Rod length depends on the type of fishing you are going to do. It would be foolish to go into a small stream, with a lot of overhanging trees, with a ten foot rod. Rod lengths are from 5'6" to 16', usually in 6" intervals, with the very short rods being for the lighter weight lines. Typical rod length is between 8'6" and 9'. Longer rods will give you better line control than short ones, and will let you cast further. It also keeps the fly further from your ears! Rod weight. Rods are designed to cast a certain weight line. Line weight is stated on the rod, (i.e. AFTMA 6, or line #6). Some rods have a dual size, (i.e. 6-7 or 7-8). What this means, is that the rod will perform best when using a double tapered 6 line, or a weight forward 7 line. The lower number being double tapered, the higher, weight forward. If only one size is indicated, it is usually for a double tapered line. There are rods manufactured today that are made for three line sizes. Your guess is as good as mine as to which line to use on it. If the manufactures don't know what it is, how are we supposed to know?

Reels
Fly reels are basically storage devises, until you get into the disk drag models for salmon and salt water fishing. Reels can be made out of aluminum, graphite, steel or brass, or any combination thereof. Most reels are interchangeable for either right or left hand retrieve, and have the ability to change spools. The drag on most reels is a pawl gear. The pawl is held tight to the gear with a spring, and some manufacturers offer this in an adjustable drag and all you are doing is tightening the tension on the springs. Most fly reels are single action, meaning one turn of a handle is one turn of the spool. Disk drag reels have a drag that consists of a disk, and pads similar to brakes on a car. To tighten the drag, you simply apply pressure to the disk with the pads, using a screw. Multiplying reels have a gear ratio. One turn of the handle usually means 4+ turns of the spool, and these reels are usually heavy, and are a bit on the expensive side. Anti-reverse reels are designed so that the spool will turn backwards, while the handle remains stationary. With today's technology, most of the manufacturers are designing reels that are called cassettes. These reels have a plastic cassette that the line goes on. The reels may be a little more expensive, but the spare cassettes are considerably less. The cassettes are easier to carry, because they don't have a handle.

Backing
Backing is a braided nylon line in sizes from 10-30pd. test. The purpose of the backing is to build out the spool of the reel so that the fly is not tightly coiled. Backing will also give insurance should you hook any large fish, and it runs further than the length of the fly line.

Fly lines
Fly lines are manufactured of a braided core and a plastic coating. These lines are designed to be a certain weight (in the first 30 feet). The weight of the line should match that of the rod. Line sizes are from 1-15 weight. Most fly lines are 90 feet long, and are designated as floating (F), float/sink tip (FS), or sinking (S), double tapered (DT), weight forward (WF), level (L), and bass bug tapper, pike tapper, tarpan tapper, nymph tapper, etc. These special tappers are a variation the weight forward lines. Floating lines are made by putting bubbles in the plastic coating.Sinking lines have a weight located in the plastic to make it sink. Sinking and sinktip lines are designed to sink at different rates of speed, depending on the sink rate. One being slowest, to super six being the fastest. The speed of which these lines sink depends on the manufacturer.

Leaders
The purpose of the leader is to transmit energy from the fly line to deliver the fly. It is also a little easier to tie a fly onto a small diameter monofilament line, than it is onto the heavy fly line. The leader is also used to separate the fly line from the fly. Leaders are tapered monofilament, either knotted or knotless. They range in length from 7.5' to 16'. 15pd test to .5pd test. Leaders are designated by an X number. This number refers to the diameter of the tippet. The X ratting of a leader, added to it's diameter in thousands, Equals 11. Example: 5x tippet is .006. 5+6=11. This rule is good when building your own leaders. It is best to use a heavy leader, and step down the tippet, depending on the size of the fly.

Tippet
Tippet is a level monofilament line that is added to the end of the leader to step the size down to permit a delicate presentation for the fly, and to extend the life of the leader. To determine the tippet size, divide the fly or the hook size by 3, and that gives you the X rating of the tippet.

Fly lines
Level lines are the same diameter from one end to the other. They are very hard to cast, and are best suited for trolling. Double tapered lines are designed with the same tapper at both ends, and a level running line in the middle. These lines are best suited for short, accurate casts, and roll casting. Double tapered lines are known as the poor man's fly line, because after you wear out one end, you can reverse the line. Weight forward lines are designed with the weight in the front end of the line, with the back tapered down into a small diameter running line. These lines are great for casting distances, and casting larger flies. They do not mend well, or roll cast as well as double tapered lines. Now that you know what is available, what size rod and line should you buy? Well, as indicated, this depends on what size fly you are going to use, and this depends on what you are fishing for. To make the discussion easier, lets make some comparisons. If we could compare a fly to a trailer, and the line size to a vehicle to pull the trailer, we should be able to determine what line and rod to purchase. Lets compare a large fly (suitable for pike or bass), to a tandem trailer, a medium fly (for bass or trout), to a box trailer, and a small fly (for trout and pan fish), to a small 2'x2' trailer (suitable for a bicycle). Now we will compare the fly line size to the vehicles. Heavy line (9 weight), to a diesel tractor, medium line (7 weight), to a pick-up truck, and light line (5 weight), to a Volkswagen. As you can see, the diesel will pull all trailers, only as the trailer gets smaller, it is a bit of overkill, and is not very graceful. On the other end of the scale, the Volkswagen would pull the small trailer with no problems, but would have trouble with the box trailer, and will not move the tandem trailer. The pick-up truck will move all trailers, even though it will have difficulty with the tandem trailer, it can move it.

Tools to Tie Flies With

Bobbin
The bobbin is used to hold the thread while you wrap it on the hook. Bobbins come in a variety of styles and sizes. The size refers to the length of the tube and to the size of spool it will hold. The style refers to either straight, curved, flared, thread or floss. Some bobbins have ceramic inserts in the tube. This prevents the thread from cutting the end of the tube and cutting the thread. The cost of a bobbin can run from $4.00 to $26.00.

Scissors
When you purchase scissors there are a few things to keep in mind. 1. The points should come together and be fine. 2. The finger holes should be large enough for your fingers. You should have at least two pairs of scissors. One for fine work, the other for coarse cutting (such as deer hair). Scissors come in two styles; straight and curved blade. The choice here is personal preference. Scissors can cost as little as $4.00\pair, or as high as $90.00\pair.

Tools to Tie Flies With

Hackle pliers
Hackle pliers were designed to hold the hackle feather while it is wrapped onto the hook. However, most tires prefer to wrap the hackle feather with their fingers. With this in mind, why do we need hackle pliers? Well, when you inadvertently break your thread, you can grip the end with your pliers, giving you time to tie your thread back on and bind down the broken end rather than start all over again, Hackle pliers come in various sizes and designs. The choice is a matter of preference. If you purchase a pair with metal jaws, make sure the jaws have no sharp edges, and that they close flat.

Bodkin, or Dubbing Needle
A bodkin is a tool that has a needle located in the handle. It is used to pick out dubbing and to apply head cement. A bodkin can be made by sticking the eye of a needle into a cork. The usual cost of a bodkin is around $2.00.

Tools to Tie Flies With

Hair stacker
A hair stacker is a tube with a removable end cap. It is used to even out the tips of the hair when tying hair wings. To use a hair stacker, you place the tips of the hair down into the tube while the cap is on. Tap the tube on the table. Turn the tube on its side, remove the cap, and remove the hair.

Whip finisher
There are many types of whip finishers. The most popular type is the Integra. This tool is used to tie the finishing knot on the head of a fly.

Tools to Tie Flies With

Hooks
The hook is the main ingredient in the fly. Hooks come in a variety of styles and sizes. The style depends on the manufacturer, and the type of fly you are tying. For the purpose of this example, we will be using Mustad hooks. The following chart indicates the style of hooks you will use, and the most useful sizes.

Hook Number	Used For	Recommended Size	Notes
3399	wet flies	8,10,12,14,16,18	sub for 3906
36170	emergers, caddis	2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16	English bait puppa, sanguan, worms hook
94840 down eye	dry flies	10,12,14,16	standard dry fly hook
94842 up eye	small dry flies	18,20,22,24,26,28
9671 2x long	some dry flies, wet flies,nymphs	4,6,8,10,12,14	flies, nymphs
9672 3x long nymphs	nymphs, stoneflies, streamers	2,4,6,8,10,12,14	muddler minnow streamers hook
79580 4x long	streamers	2,4,6,8,10	stoneflies, bucktails
3665A	streamers	2,4,6,8	nymphs, bucktails
94720 8x long	trolling streamers	1/0,2,4
37187	bass bug	1/0,2,4,6	wide gap

Tools to Tie Flies With


Hooks are referred to as: standard wire, 1 extra fine, 2 extra heavy, and 2 extra heavy, standard length, 1 extra short, 2 extra short, 1 extra long, etc. This means a size 12, 2 extra long has a shank length of a standard hook two sizes larger. Example: a size 12 hook, 2 extra long, has a shank length equal to the same style, standard hook in a size 10. It should be noted that for this length designation, it is assumed that hook sizes change in increments of 1.